b]By Diana Pilsworth. - Dec 19/2004[/b]
“A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY” on QUEEN ELIZABETH II.
Los Angeles to Sydney, January 15th through February 21st, 2004

Cruise Ship,Queen Elizabeth 2, was launched by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on the 20th of September, 1967. Now over 35 years later, she is still one of the most famous cruise ships in the world and one of the last of the great transatlantic liners. This famous ship has steamed over 4.8 million miles, completed over 1250 voyages and when fully booked accommodates 1750 passengers. She is over 900 feet long, and as tall as a ten storey building. Travellers may choose to circumnavigate the entire globe or alternatively, opt for a particular segment. In January, 2004, Diana Pilsworth and her husband Wilf departed Los Angeles for Sydney, Australia on the QE2 for a twenty six day “Voyage of Discovery”. This is Diana’s account of that amazing and unforgettable trip.

Our taxi races towards Pier 91 of the San Pedro Dock in Los Angeles and soon the famous red and black stack of the QE2 looms into view. Pulling our luggage behind us, we enter the massive “holding” area. Our credentials are carefully checked, our photographs taken and we watch as our luggage is quickly whisked away, hopefully to its proper destination! The Cunard staff, crisply uniformed and with carnations in their lapels are waiting for us at the embarkation point. We boldly stride across the boarding gangplank and are cheerfully escorted us to our cosy cabin, our home for the next twenty-six days.

The Queen is scheduled to depart LA at 10:00 pm that same evening. Wide interior windows (for those who prefer to be inside) allow a panoramic view of the immense Los Angeles harbour, crowded with vessels of all shapes and sizes. Darkness is descending and anticipation of our departure builds. At approximately 10:15 pm, there is a hint of movement, and then, this famous vessel moves forward into the harbour’s main channel. The bright lights of Los Angeles are left behind and the Queen boldly forges her way out into the immense Pacific Ocean

It is an amazing experience on early days at sea to observe nothing but a vast expanse of water in every direction. The frequent long rolling swells of the Pacific cause the ship to rhythmically rise and fall, and in some locations, the constant drone of the engine is very noticeable. A restful night’s sleep could seem impossible for those not accustomed to this mode of travel. But after several days, we become acclimatized as the sounds become familiar and even hypnotic.



After three full days aboard, our arrival in the Hawaiian port of Honolulu is imminent. Frequent peaks through our tiny porthole reveal a grey haze and the first glimpse of the island chain becomes visible. Distant hills and mountain peaks begin to take shape and before long, the Queen is efficiently secured in her Honolulu berth. As passengers crowd the railings of the Queen’s many decks, sounds of ukuleles and the sweet strong voices of the women of Hawaii waft upward.

That evening, the ship is festooned with brightly coloured lights and artificial palms. The rhythmic sounds of the Queen’s onboard combo group fill the air and the dancing, for some, continues into the wee hours of the morning. And when the time arrives to leave Honolulu behind, the Hawaiian singers are there once again, but this time to bid farewell. Crowds line the waterfront as the Queen heads bravely out to sea for the Samoan capital of Pago Pago, a distance of twenty-five hundred miles.

But days at sea are never dull. The Queen is spacious with a multitude of possibilities to rest or be active. She never seems to be crowded and recreational opportunities abound. For example, the QE2 Ocean Bookshop includes a library with an outstanding assortment of books readily available on loan. And a good thing too. I have never seen so many readers. Every deck, every nook and cranny, every deck chair and every lounger seem to be occupied by someone reading, an amazing sight in this day and age of TV and computers.


I am frequently one of the readers. As I sit in a comfortable chair with my book in hand, I gaze out through a windowed wall of glass at the wide expanse of the Pacific. The water sparkles in the sun and undulates hypnotically. Here I discover a “disconnect” from the trouble and turbulence of our current world, a rare opportunity for reflection and an internal silence that is good for my soul.

While some of us chose to engage in a quiet relaxing read, others frequent the on-board casino with its clanging bells and flashing lights...the constant clink of money going in with not so much coming out. Just another way to occupy oneself on this floating world of water, but definitely one of the more expensive pastimes I suspect!

Another popular pastime for many is walking the long promenade deck. Five times around and you’ve covered a mile! Each morning, folks of all ages and stages, dressed in shorts, slacks, bathing suits or sundresses are all “out there” trying to offset the constant assault of irresistibly appetizing food.

As a change of pace, we especially enjoy the evenings that require formal dress when the dining room, in particular, becomes a place of elegance, fine food, and quiet camaraderie. The gentlemen look handsome in their white or black-jacketed tuxedos while the women are resplendent in elegant long-skirted gowns.

But the evening’s entertainment in the Grand Lounge following a sumptuous dinner always draws a big crowd! The nightly performances are professional and of high calibre. Everything from pianists and flutists, vocalists, comedians, Australian bush bands, Maori dancers and even a magician! But in particular, the whole idea of this opulent enclosed lounge totally obscures the notion that we are really a floating hotel in the middle of the ocean. So easy to forget except for the moment or two when the curtained backdrop sways from side to side and performers slide unexpectedly across the stage, sometimes with pretty hilarious results.


Our next port of call is the Samoan island of Tutuila, a mere dot in an infinite stretch of water. Our ship is gently guided through the red and green buoys leading to Pago Pago, Tutuila’s sweeping natural harbour. But the harbour itself cannot be called attractive for this is a port where fisherman ply the choppy waters that surround Samoa in search of tuna. In anticipation of our arrival, the Samoans have crowded the dock adjacent to the Queen with a multitude of gaily coloured scarves and other pieces of clothing that blow and billow wildly in the stiff Polynesian breeze.

But the parade of colour is not yet over! Our gaily-painted, multi-coloured tour bus, (sporting windows that remain permanently open, Samoan air conditioning!) is waiting for us to board. This garish, rickety vehicle with wooden slats for a floor, bumps and rattles around the western perimeter of this small US held possession. The heat is oppressive, but a persistent cool wind helps us to survive. The azure blue waters surrounding this island, always turbulent, with white breakers rolling up onto the shore, are enticing but definitely not suitable for the inexperienced or unwary swimmer.

Cruising can be a strange experience. No telephones ringing, no grocery shopping or meal preparation required, no laundry to be done and no beds to be made up. The dining room service is so complete that even picking up your own serviette is considered gauche. But this environment definitely represents an opportunity to reflect to re-evaluate a pace at home that might have been too frantic. And it seems others share my view! The cruise sales office is always busy. Many QE2 aficionados are already booking next year’s voyage, a good 12 months in advance. Great faith in the future required and of course, lots of money.

After three more days at sea, we are anticipating our arrival in Viti Levu, the largest of Fiji’s 332 islands. 4:30 a.m.! The ships engines throb loudly, enough to disturb sleep! Because of the heat, early morning tours are the order of the day and our air-conditioned buses, this time are of the North American variety, are lined up waiting for the mass of passengers to board. The day is once again very hot, especially since the wild winds of Pago Pago are missing. Our bus slowly wends its way carefully through the busy, crowded streets of Lautoka, Viti Levu’s commercial centre, before continuing on to the “Garden of the Sleeping Giant”. This spectacular garden, gently nestled in a shady mountain valley, boasts Fiji’s largest orchid collection. We are entranced by the colourful array of thousands of exotic brilliantly coloured orchids and photo taking becomes inevitable! The day out concludes with a visit to a Fijian village where we are warmly welcomed by the chief. A “kava” ceremony is performed in our honour and then we are royally entertained by the men and women of the village. Exuberant rhythmic dances, resonant chanting harmonies and colourful native costumes reflect a tradition that is hundreds of years old and we are mesmerized by the energy and enthusiasm of these Fijian performers.

As we prepare for departure from Fiji, the Lautoka Police Band, officers, splendid in crisp military blue shirts and white saw-toothed skirts, are gathered on the dock to entertain us with their rousing rhythms. We wave to the small crowd gathered on the dock below and they in turn wave back. The band strikes up the Fijian farewell song, and with heavy hearts, we leave the friendly and wonderful people of Fiji.


The last of our South Pacific sojourns is a stop in the bustling port of Noumea, capital of the French possession of New Caledonia. The French influence is very obvious and the commercial atmosphere quite different from that of Samoa and Fiji. Had I chosen the “aerial odyssey” by helicopter over this long narrow South Pacific island, I would have seen from aloft the world’s largest lagoon, second largest barrier reef, translucent tropical waters, and mineral rich hills! But helicopter flights do not appeal and so I opt for a day out on a catamaran to swim and snorkel; a chance to view and feed the local fish population! This is a good choice for me as the weather continues to be outrageously hot and a dip in the blue waters of the Pacific is a great relief for those of us unaccustomed to the sweltering heat of the tropics.

As we depart New Caledonia steaming for New Zealand, the weather becomes a little cooler, a rather welcome relief after the oppressive heat experienced earlier on the voyage. Auckland, one of New Zealand’s famous port cities, is known as the “City of Sails”. And as the Queen gently moves into her berth, we are surrounded by vessels of every shape and size; cruise ships, container ships, and the famous yachts of the America’s Cup are all there for the viewing. In fact, statistics tell us that there are some 70,000 sailing crafts and private power boats in the greater Auckland region...one boat to every fourth household!

Our next port of call is Wellington, another of New Zealand’s scenic but smaller cities. We are fortunate to have friends in Wellington who have time to take us on personalized tour. Mesmerizing coastal scenery and coffee at a small local café overlooking the blue seas of the Pacific concludes another splendid day that is all too soon over.

But our South Pacific voyage is not complete without a final stop in Christchurch with its decidedly British atmosphere. Filled with public parks and gardens, the town centre is sensibly reserved for pedestrians only. The river that meanders its way through the centre of this verdant garden city is replete with Venetian-like punts, happy customers safely ensconced within. But again, fortune is smiling on us. Recently discovered Internet cousins enthusiastically provide a private tour of Acaroa, an incredibly beautiful mountainous region that lies just beyond Christchurch. Majestic mountain scenery dotted with incredibly azure blue lakes! An unbelievable scene, reminiscent of a Hollywood movie set! One that will remain etched in our memory for years to come.

And so we journey on. We have left behind the warmth and hospitality of the peoples of the Polynesian islands of American Samoa, Fiji and New Caledonia. And we have left behind the mountain peaks, blue waters and amazing harbours of Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch. The Queen has treated us well over those happy days but is now carrying us speedily and safely to our next anticipated stop of Hobart, Tasmania. We are crossing the Tasman Sea, a body of water renowned for its turbulence. The temperature has noticeably dropped and the sea is rife with large swells and white caps. The ship is moving beneath our feet, first up and down and then side-to-side, and we must balance and pay attention, always one hand on a nearby rail. We notice that sea sick bags have been placed in strategic locations so it seems that some indisposition is anticipated.

No deck walking while crossing this notoriously rough body of water. With a boat speed of 21 knots and a wind speed of 20 knots, even the hardiest of walkers back off and retreat to one of the more sheltered lower decks. But the Queen is ploughing on with determination, her high pointed seaworthy bow cutting through the choppy swells, throwing out huge white bow waves, captivating to watch for some and perhaps frightening for others.

Hobart, Tasmania, Australia’s most southern and smallest capital city, sports a busy harbour, a mountain backdrop, and numerous parks. But with only one day to spend in this location, itinerary choices must be made. We chose a trip out into the Tasmanian countryside rather than tour Hobart, a decision in retrospect that we regretted as we really saw nothing of Hobart. One of the few disappointments of this fabulous voyage. As we leave Hobart and head out to sea once again, “Opus”, one of the Queen’s live bands, plays a spirited and enthusiastic “YMCA” on the upper deck, and we happily dance the night away.

As we arrive in Melbourne, the town crier, a tiny figure on the dock far below, welcomes us with a loud voice that is well out of proportion to his size! The skyscrapers of the city centre are visible in spite of the haze and several tall apartment buildings are strung out along the harbour’s edge. But the water is glistening in the sunshine and the sailing craft so associated with this country are visible all around us.

In anticipation of our afternoon out, we must be well supplied with water, bananas for potassium, sunscreen, hats and even moistened cloths in plastic bags to mop the perspiration from our brow! The temperature is 41 degrees Celsius! Our chosen excursion features a long morning out on Puffing Billy, an old steam train, into the Dandelong Range National Park, famous for its hardwood trees, some of the tallest and fastest growing in the world. And on our return to the ship after a day of oppressive heat, the on-deck pool looks mighty attractive! Like many other ships, the Queen sports an outdoor pool on the lowest of the promenade decks. No artificial wave maker required here! Descending the ladder into the enticing coolness of the pool requires timing and judgement as the water constantly surges and sloshes from one side to the other!

Our departure from Melbourne is especially memorable as a multitude of power boats and seadoos enthusiastically follow us, playfully crossing back and forth across the Queen’s rambunctious wake!

Unfortunately, the Queen arrives in Sydney several hours ahead of her scheduled time. The promise of a 6am arrival with a view of one of the most beautiful harbours in the world has prompted us to set the alarm for 5:00 But this is not to be! At 4:00 am our cabin begins the well recognized shake and shudder indicating that the Queen is slowing down to allow the port pilot aboard. A few hours later, we are up on deck to take in the sight of the world famous Sydney harbour with its renowned Opera House. This is another truly maritime place, with a plethora of ferries lined up at the water’s edge ready to take us to innumerable spots of beauty, both within and surrounding this world famous city.

But Sydney is our point of disembarkation and we are reluctant to recognize that our fabulous trip is over. We spend a few extra days in Sydney on our own but the disconnect from the Queen has already begun. We recognize that others will now take our special place in the dining room and others will now occupy our cosy cabin. And right on time at 6:00 pm on February 18th, we hear three loud blasts signalling the Queen’s departure from Sydney as she embarks on the next segment of her round-the-world voyage without us.

Diana, and her friend Bette Bowyer are co-authors of “The Secrets of Villa Vacations”, an updated 45 page travel guide showing you how to research and plan a fabulous European villa vacation. This guide provides practical and proven advice from two experienced travellers. For further information, go to www.villasecrets.com

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